Posts Tagged ‘cuisine’



Dining Santa Fe: Andiamo

Authentic in taste, if a bit upscale for the term “Trattoria,” Andiamo reminds me of dining in Italy for its quality of ingredients, smooth composition, and generous hospitality.  An intersection of passion, pride, and joyous good humor prevails, whether the restaurant is packed or building steam. Credit the caring staff for upholding the feeling.  Credit the cook for putting together knockout culinary combinations.

The acme of appetizers is the Crispy Polenta: a Rumba of taste and texture– at once crispy, creamy, savory and sweet. My ten year old niece ate it with gusto as has every adult I know who’s put a fork into its luscious appeal.  The Parma Prosciutto + Belgian Endive is a tastebud-zinging balance of mildly bitter, fruity and salty flavors. For the main course, I love the Penne with House-Made Lamb Sausage, the Chicken Marsala with its earthy porcini side, and the Seafood Linguini.  I am less wowed by the Pizzas (for those, I head to Farina, in Albuquerque.  More on that in another post).

While I am not much of a dessert fan, I find the pots de crème irresistible, to a giddy, sybaritic, self-embarrassing degree. This Chocolatey Custard is rich enough to split, luxurious enough to make any meal a Valentine. My younger relatives favor the Profiteroles (puff pastries, ice cream AND chocolate sauce.) I hear the Pannacotta is excellent. Skip the unremarkable cookies.

A comparatively low-cost way to check out Andiamo is during its weekday Happy Hour.  Select glasses of wine and appetizers are offered at reduced prices. Sip, sample, and you won’t be able to resist returning.

Arguably “Santa Fe’s Best Italian,” Andiamo has snagged 1st place honors for four years running in The Santa Fe Reporter’s Best of Santa Fe annual poll (2008-2011.) Its fans are loyal and happy.

Andatene: Go. Eat. Enjoy.

Located at 322 Garfield Street, in the Railyard District, an easy walk from The Plaza, Andiamo is open for Lunch from 11-2 and from 5:00 PM for Dinner. Some items are available partially-cooked, to be completed and enjoyed at home.  Catering is also available. Tel: 505.995.9595

Dining Santa Fe: Raaga

“Fresh” and “light” are two words I never thought I would associate with the gram flour coated, fried vegetable appetizer known as a “pakora.” But Raaga, the newest addition to Santa Fe’s generously endowed culinary scene, is a standout for its clean, bright flavors and delicate touch with fried food.  The daily buffet includes a soup, rice, vegan, vegetarian and meat entrees, Naan, a salad bar and dessert. On the day we went, the soup was tomato-fennel (vigorously enjoyed by a seven year old at the adjacent table) and the dessert a lusciously creamy Mango Kulfi. Its flavor was so vibrant and sense-satisfying that my partner and I comfortably split a small cup between us. The crisp pakora tasted like a flash-fried vegetable, not breading and oil.

Praise for Raaga has been rolling through the social media and consumer driven review sites, such as Yelp, and I haven’t read a negative word yet. Cynics could peg this enthusiasm to Santa Fe’s hunger for dining novelty, but in truth, more newcomer eateries limp out the gate than gallop. Raaga rockets.

If there’s a complaint in the wings, it could arise from the extremely limited seating that may lead to long waits and turnaways once the word of Raaga’s excellence gets around. The restaurant also lacks a liquor license (although has started the process toward obtaining one) which may be a deterrent for evening diners.  That said, the building is beautiful, the service warm and attentive and the food a savory standout. “Raaga” means “sweet melody.” Downtown Santa Fe is lucky to be hearing its song.

HOURS: Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 AM-2:30 PM and 5:00-9:30 PM.  Friday and Saturday, 11:30 AM-2:30 PM and 5:00-10:00 PM

Tel: 505.820.6440 email: raagacuisine@gmail.com

LOCATED at 544 Agua Fria Street, in Downtown Santa Fe, a block west of the Santuario de Guadalupe.

Dining Santa Fe: The Green Chile Cheeseburger

Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail, NM Tourism Department

“No state is more passionate about its burger than New Mexico,” states The New Mexico Department of Tourism, a claim that Texas, California, Illinois or half-a-dozen other burger-loving locales might dispute.  But the Land of Enchantment can call first and best for the marriage of burger and green chile.

Chile is what makes New Mexican food New Mexican, versus Mexican or Tex-Mex. Red and Green chile come from the same plant, harvested at different times. Red chile, made from dried, ground pods, has a sweeter, slightly smoky taste. Green chile is to me what pesto was to Genovese sailors: it holds the bright, fresh essence of New Mexican sunshine in a taste.

New Mexico’s Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail, put together by the New Mexico Department of Tourism, is a”[selection of] some four dozen of the state’s outstanding green chile cheeseburger restaurants, cafes, drive-ins, and joints.”  Below– in alphabetical order, not order of preference– are our recommendations for the best local spots in downtown Santa Fe.

Bert’s Burger Bowl: Our usual order is a green chile cheeseburger with a side of sweet potato fries and spicy sauce, but the flavorful gourmet burgers, such as lamb, Kobe Beef and Ostrich– are what really set Bert’s apart. Service is perfunctory. Outdoor seating options are tables on busy Guadalupe or in a plastic-windowed shotgun patio without atmosphere or adequate heat for cool weather. Also note that the Arnold Palmers are made with Sprite, not lemonade. Still, for quick, filling, savory and cheap, Bert’s is a good bet. Diners, Drive-ins and Dives’ Guy Fieri visited Bert’s in November of 2009. Watch the YouTube.

Bobcat Bite: This small, ever-busy, no-nonsense diner is a perennial Santa Fe Reporter “Best of Santa Fe” winner that has reaped kudos from sources as diverse as GQ, Bon Appetit and The Chicago Tribune.  The thick, juicy 10 ounce burgers are made of choice ground choice whole boneless chuck or sirloin served on a toasty, cornmeal dusted bun.  Homefries extra. Well-worth the 15 minute drive. 420 Old Las Vegas Highway Tel: 505.983.5319 Winter Hours: 11-7:50.

Cowgirl Santa Fe: The Cowgirl’s half-pound choice burger comes with fries and slaw, topped with your choice of cheddar, Monterey Jack, Swiss or Blue Cheese. Add a dollar for green chile strips and the Cowgirl’s burger is still a bargain relative to other sit-down restaurants.  Plus, the Kaiser Roll beats the typical tasteless, super-soft white bread bun by a yard. Feeling adventurous? For a few dollars more, you can get an Elk, Buffalo or Venison burger, smothered in Green, topped with cheddar, with a salad on the side. Tel: 982.2565; 319 S. Guadalupe St. For hours and Directions, click here.

Santacafé: I haven’t had their Green Chile Cheeseburger and, frankly, this isn’t the sort of fare I seek out at this upscale restaurant known for its American-Southwest-dash-of-Asian fusion cuisine (the Calamari with 4 Chile Lime dipping sauce is a must-try.) But if you want your burger in slightly more sophisticated surroundings, Santa Cafe is a good bet.  The courtyard is a wonderful setting in fair weather. 231 Washington Avenue Tel: 505.984.1788

Second Street Brewery:  The half-pound choice burger can be topped with green chile and cheese for an additional $1.75.  Homemade fries or chips are included, or you can substitute slaw, onion rings, soup, stew or a salad of mixed greens– my usual choice. Quality, handcrafted beers and frequent live music are among the reasons Second Street made the list. The newest location in the Railyard, is walking distance from the Plaza, and hard by Box Gallery and SITE Santa Fe, two of our favorite places for Contemporary Art.  Tel: 989-3278 The original Second Street Brewery is located at 1814 Second Street, near the Pacheco Street Arts District. Tel: 982-3030 The new Second Street is brand new and a tad swankier, but the old building has Ernie– as sensitive and savvy a waiter as you’ll find at any price point.

I put the vote for best Green Chile Cheeseburger out to my friends on Facebook.  The swift and rich response included plugs for Albuquerque eateries (Lumpy’s, Five Star Burger, Duran’s and O’Neill’s) as well as both confirmation (Bobcat Bite) and counterpoint (Rio Chama, Del Charro, Horseman’s Haven, San Francisco Bar & Grill, and El Milagro) for our Santa Fe lineup.

Have an opinion?  Leave your comment below.  We’d love to hear your thoughts.

READERS NOTE: Through the end of the month, you can nominate your favorite candidate for best New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger.  Follow this link to fill out the brief nomination form. Voting runs from March 1st through March 31st, so be sure to check back and cast your vote.

Dining Santa Fe: India House

India-House Like many immigrants arriving in New York from India in 1974, Kewal Dhindsa found his first job in the United States in a restaurant.  Unlike his comrades, however, he refused to start as a waiter, determined to be a cook. He was so determined, in fact, that he cut a deal with the renowned Punjabi restaurant’s Master Chef to work six months without pay, on call like a medical intern. To sweeten his teacher’s temperament, he often brought him a fifth of spirits.

Those six months paid off, when Kewal got his first job as a cook, earning three times a waiter’s wage, and garnering the skills that enabled him to open his own restaurant in Santa Fe in 1992.

The early nineties were tough times to start a business.  The threat of Hantavirus nearly killed tourism, and Dhindsa took on a lot of debt to survive.  But eventually, tourism turned a corner, the business thrived and in 2005, the family opened a second restaurant, India Palace, in Albuquerque.

We spoke with Amrik Dhindsa, one of Kewal’s two sons, who credits the restaurant’s success to time, attention and quality of ingredients–like real saffron for the rice. “Good Punjabi cuisine is labor intensive.  To give the rice pudding deep flavor, you have to cook it for a long time and keep scraping it down.  If it sticks, it runs the whole batch. “India-House-3

Does India House have a specialty?  “Chicken Tikka Masala.”  Amrik’s favorite dish?  “Mint Lamb Curry, not a regular entree, but soon to be introduced. “We are very accommodating of our vegetarian and vegan customers.  We use different utensils and pans.”

Perhaps the most powerful secret to the rich satisfaction of the restaurant’s food is something found on grandma’s shelf: love and a desire to serve.  “Ours is a very hospitable culture.  We feel bad if we are not able to provide,” says Amrik. Familial warmth is pervasive throughout the restaurant’s culture.  Diners are greeted like honored guests.  And staff members work cooperatively, not competitively.

India-House“Waiters are not assigned tables or given a section, ” says Amrik.  “They work together.  One clears a table, one wipes and another is standing ready to set.” As a result, staff turnover is minimal.  Gurmit Saroya, whose son Surjit is the cook, has worked at India House for 17 years.  (A vegetarian, Gurmit’s favorite dishes are the paneer and makhni.)  Gurmit, too, praises the community spirit.

“We work like a family.  The feeling is good.  There’s lots of respect.”

He praises the owners for their generosity towards their staff.  “They make us whatever we want to eat, never tell us we can’t have something. They take care of us.”

Communal support is evidenced by the staff and owner’s approach to waiter John’s upcoming trip to India.  Although John will be gone for several months, the owners have decided not to hire a replacement.  Instead, everyone–including the owners–will step in to cover John’s shifts.  John, whose first job was as one of Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of the Poor, wouldn’t work anywhere else.

India House is located at 2501 Cerrillos, near the Casa Alegre neighborhood.  Hours: 11:30-2:30 daily for the buffet, and from 5:00-10:00 nightly for dinner. Tel: 471.2651.

Dining Santa Fe

We love good food. We spend a lot of time on the run.  Fortunately, this combo results in our eating out at least five times a week in Santa Fe, a city abundant with good restaurants in a range of price points.  Off the top of my cranium are five choices that vary substantially in cuisine, price and atmosphere, presented in alphabetical order. Watch for more to come.

Clafouti: The owners hail from Dijon, so it’s only right that they should make the transcendentally best French bread in town. My taste in pastries runs away from the sugared, so I can’t speak to the quality of the many visually luscious offerings in the case by the cash register but the mildly sweet brioche are meltingly soft.  The Salad Charlotte is my lunch preference; Josh favors the Cubano sandwich  but the Croque Monsieur merits attention as a far grander, more voluptuous version of the classic sandwich than any I ever sampled across the pond.  For breakfast, I like Le Speciale: 2 eggs, any style, plus bacon or ham and a bread basket. My alternate favorite: the omelette provençale.  The waffles and French Toast are well worth a try for their generous amounts of fresh fruit–no stinting on berries. Order the large coffee if you tend to drink your first cup quickly as the refill process can be painfully slow (wait staff must carry your cup up to machine in the front to pour a fresh cup.) Overall, Clafouti is one of our favorite restaurants for food quality, panache and the bright charm of its owners.$-$$ 402 N. Guadalupe * 988.1809

Cowgirl Hall of Fame Restaurant: If you’ve got the hankers for good barbeque in a lively, no fuss atmosphere, Cowgirl’s your ticket. Known for its heaping plates of mesquite smoked ribs, brisket and chicken, the Cowgirl also offers tasty and filing vegetarian fare. The cheesy, butternut squash casserole with its substantial side salad is a standout. Jerk Chicken and bourbon salmon platters are other savory options. As for appetizers, the best value is the nacho plate: a gargantuan nest of color, texture and flavor. The burgers are respectable, but stick with the regular fries as the sweet potato versions are a limp disappointment. For teetotalers, the Texas Sized sodas are two-fisted monsters of abundance. Even Arnold Palmer lovers are generously entitled to refills at no extra charge. For those seeking a stiffer brew, there’s a full bar with a good selection of tasty margaritas and tequilas. Be forewarned that the bar can be slow. Indeed, service can be a weak point, but if you have the time and patience to drop your spurs for a spell, the cowgirl delivers. Kid friendly; nice outdoor patio; live entertainment. $-$$ 319 S. Guadalupe * 982.2565

Pyramid Cafe: The first time we peeked in the windows of this nondescript storefront, we were put off by its emptiness and imagined a meal of stale pita and withering vegetables as the owners attempted to stretch out days of uneaten food.  Nothing could be further from the character of this bastion of fresh flavors.  We have dug deep ruts towards the same 2-3 offerings: Joshua tends to get the Gyro Sandwich and I am wed to the Roasted Leg of Lamb Salad, but any excursion off the path has been equally rewarding.  Meat is nicely seared: juicy with a hint of charing.  Salads are crisp and well-seasoned.  And while daytime ordering takes place at the counter, the man who usually greets us, takes our order and brings it to the table has a warmth and presence amidst the bustle that make us feel like genuinely honored guests.  For good value and reasonable prices, Pyramid is a staple.  North African, Mediterranean and Greek Cuisine. $$ 505 Cordova Rd. * 505.989.1378, Open 7 days a week, 11-9 PM continuously

Shoko Cafe: For many years, Shoko was the only Asian restaurant in Santa Fe, and my affection for it runs deep. Over time, its food and atmosphere have become more polished with an attendant rise in prices that sometimes seem a step ahead of its value. Solo diners should sit at the sushi bar to experience the deft artistry and hospitality of the chefs in attendance.  The fish is fresh and beautifully presented,  Indeed, most plates are a visual delight.  The Omakase Chef’s Choice sushi/sashimi special, however, lacked the range and sophistication we might have expected for the price. Vegetarians have strong options with excellent salads and vegetable appetizers (seaweed sesame and spinach sesame are two of our favorites), as well as entrees such as vegetable tempura, udon with vegetables and Tofu steak. Bento boxes are bountiful and beautifully balanced.  There’s a good selection of sakes, beer and wine as well as non-alcoholic drinks.  Avoid the overpriced lemonade and Arnold Palmers. Sushi and Japanese. $$-$$$ 321 Johnson St. * 982.9708

Upper Crust Pizza: Voted “Best Pizza” in the Santa Fe Reporter’s reader poll from 1995-2010, Upper Crust has competition from purveyors of wood-fired thin crusts, but those who favor a traditional American pizza will be pleased with the quality and value of this local institution. The whole wheat crust with its softly chewy texture and sweet, nutty flavor gets our vote over the perfectly respectable white. Choose your own toppings, or opt for one of the classics. Our favorite, the veggie combo, is loaded with tasty toppings, including a mild-leaning green chile that is as affectionately entwined in my memories of New Mexican pizza as Madelines were in the remembrances of Marcel Proust. Salads are a bit soggy with dressing but don’t lack for flavor. A good selection of brews and a pleasant outdoor patio make this a nice, affordable summer stop. Opt for pickup over delivery, which can be spotty. $-$$ 329 Old Santa Fe Trail * 982.0000

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