Authentic in taste, if a bit upscale for the term “Trattoria,” Andiamo reminds me of dining in Italy for its quality of ingredients, smooth composition, and generous hospitality. An intersection of passion, pride, and joyous good humor prevails, whether the restaurant is packed or building steam. Credit the caring staff for upholding the feeling. Credit the cook for putting together knockout culinary combinations.
The acme of appetizers is the Crispy Polenta: a Rumba of taste and texture– at once crispy, creamy, savory and sweet. My ten year old niece ate it with gusto as has every adult I know who’s put a fork into its luscious appeal. The Parma Prosciutto + Belgian Endive is a tastebud-zinging balance of mildly bitter, fruity and salty flavors. For the main course, I love the Penne with House-Made Lamb Sausage, the Chicken Marsala with its earthy porcini side, and the Seafood Linguini. I am less wowed by the Pizzas (for those, I head to Farina, in Albuquerque. More on that in another post).
While I am not much of a dessert fan, I find the pots de crème irresistible, to a giddy, sybaritic, self-embarrassing degree. This Chocolatey Custard is rich enough to split, luxurious enough to make any meal a Valentine. My younger relatives favor the Profiteroles (puff pastries, ice cream AND chocolate sauce.) I hear the Pannacotta is excellent. Skip the unremarkable cookies.
A comparatively low-cost way to check out Andiamo is during its weekday Happy Hour. Select glasses of wine and appetizers are offered at reduced prices. Sip, sample, and you won’t be able to resist returning.
Arguably “Santa Fe’s Best Italian,” Andiamo has snagged 1st place honors for four years running in The Santa Fe Reporter’s Best of Santa Fe annual poll (2008-2011.) Its fans are loyal and happy.
Andatene: Go. Eat. Enjoy.
Located at 322 Garfield Street, in the Railyard District, an easy walk from The Plaza, Andiamo is open for Lunch from 11-2 and from 5:00 PM for Dinner. Some items are available partially-cooked, to be completed and enjoyed at home. Catering is also available. Tel: 505.995.9595
Like many immigrants arriving in New York from India in 1974, Kewal Dhindsa found his first job in the United States in a restaurant. Unlike his comrades, however, he refused to start as a waiter, determined to be a cook. He was so determined, in fact, that he cut a deal with the renowned Punjabi restaurant’s Master Chef to work six months without pay, on call like a medical intern. To sweeten his teacher’s temperament, he often brought him a fifth of spirits.
“Waiters are not assigned tables or given a section, ” says Amrik. “They work together. One clears a table, one wipes and another is standing ready to set.” As a result, staff turnover is minimal. Gurmit Saroya, whose son Surjit is the cook, has worked at India House for 17 years. (A vegetarian, Gurmit’s favorite dishes are the paneer and makhni.) Gurmit, too, praises the community spirit.
